Hsu, T.-W.; Hsieh, C.-M., Tsai, C.-Y., and Ou, S.-H., 2015. Numerical simulation for wave breaking on bar/step-type beach profile.

A two-dimensional numerical model was developed to simulate wave breaking on a barred/stepped beach profile. The volume of fluid with piecewise linear interface calculation (VOF/PLIC) is employed to a track-free surface configuration. The embedding (EB) method is used to describe complex bottom topography without imposing boundary conditions on the bottom. The present model shows significant improvement for describing both wave profile and flow fields for spilling breakers when compared with laboratory observations. Based on numerical results, flow characteristics of the free surface profile, mean velocities, vorticities and turbulence transports under spilling breakers traveling over a bar/step-type beach profile were discussed.

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