Investigation of the Bottom-Slope Dependence of the Nonlinear Wave Evolution toward Breaking Using SWASH

Filipot, J.-F., 2016. Investigation of the bottom-slope dependence of the nonlinear wave evolution toward breaking using SWASH.

Numerical simulations of irregular waves propagating over planar beaches with slopes varying from 1 to 10% are performed with the Simulating WAves till SHore (SWASH) model. As reported in observational studies, waves shoaling over steep (mild) slopes break in shallower (deeper) water. The bottom slope is found to influence the cumulative contribution of the triad wave interactions to the wave spectrum. The triad contribution affects wave skewness and wave asymmetry at breaking point. This consolidates findings reported in previous field studies and has significant implications for coastal applications.