ABSTRACT

Wang, J.; Liang, B.C.; Li, H.J.; Pan, X.Y.; Lee, D.Y., and Xu, Y., 2016. Swash motion driven by the bore and prediction of foreshore profile change. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 492–497. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The prediction of a swash zone bed profile resulting from complex hydrodynamic processes is a challenging task. A series of laboratory experiments at a 2D wave flume were carried out to investigate the evolution of foreshore profiles and sediment transport in the swash zone. The swash motions and the changes of foreshore profiles at the different stages of foreshore evolution were measured for 12 cases of different combinations of wave height, wave period and water level for two different initial beach slopes (1/5 and 1/15). From the evolution of foreshore profiles detected by side looking video cameras mounted to the glass wall of a 2D wave flume, the sediment transport rates were estimated precisely both in time and space using the 1-D sediment conservation equation. The characteristics of the instantaneous sediment flux of swash motion and feasibility of its prediction were discussed. The characteristics of the swash-averaged net sediment flux at different stages of beach evolution were investigated by detecting the detailed net flux at 2 minute intervals from the precise beach profile changes. Simple methods of prediction of sediment transport and foreshore profile change are discussed for swash motion driven by bores.

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