ABSTRACT

Pezerat, M.; Martins, K., and Bertin, X., 2020. Modelling storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral models. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1240-1244. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper presents field observations collected in 2010 in the shoreface of Oléron Island (France) under storm wave conditions combined with predictions from the state-of-the-art spectral model WWM-III to evaluate three classical formulations for dissipation by depth-induced breaking. This comparison reveals a substantial over-dissipation by breaking resulting in a negative bias on significant wave height reaching 50% at the peak of the storm. An adaptive parameterization based on existing theories for depth-induced breaking has consequently been tested and yields improved predictions. This new parameterization remains to be tested under various incident wave conditions up to the inner surf zone.

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