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Volume , Number 70 (10070)

April 2014

ISSN 0749-0208

eISSN 1551-5036

In this Issue

Front Matter
Research Articles

Special Issue 70 - Proceedings of the 13th International Coastal Symposium

Front Matter

TABLE OF CONTENTS AND FRONT MATTER

Research Articles

Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

R. Díaz-Sánchez; J.S. López-Gutiérrez; A. Lechuga; V. Negro

Analysis of wave attenuation and shore protection of a bulk carrier ship performing as a detached floating breakwater

A. Fernández Lázaro; R.M. Gutiérrez Serret; V. Negro; J.S. López-Gutiérrez

The effect of scour protections in offshore wind farms

Clara Matutano; Vicente Negro; José-Santos López-Gutiérrez; M. Dolores Esteban; Andrés Hernández

Using Combined Modelling Approaches to Improve Coastal Defence Design: a case study at Hopton, UK

J.J. Williams; L.S. Esteves; T. Conduche; P. Barber; A. Tindle

On the use of the Radon transform to estimate longshore currents from video imagery

Stanislas Larnier; Rafael Almar; Rodrigo Cienfuegos; Antoine Lejay

Quantifying dispersion in an estuary: A Lagrangian drifter approach

D. Spencer; C.J. Lemckert; Y. Yu; J. Gustafson; S.Y. Lee; H. Zhang

Monitoring of High Waves and Tsunami using HF Ocean Radar in the East Coast of Korea

Jinsung Seo; Bumshick Shin; Kyuhan Kim

Impact of detached breakwaters on shoreline evolution: a case study on the Portuguese West Coast

Maria A.V.C. Araújo; Silvia D. Bona; António Trigo-Teixeira

Growth of cuspate spits

Frédéric Bouchette; Miguel Manna; Pablo Montalvo; Alexis Nutz; Mathieu Schuster; Jean-François Ghienne

Investigating the role of complex sandbar morphology on nearshore hydrodynamics

N. Cohn; P. Ruggiero; J. Ortiz; D.J. Walstra

Volumetric changes of a soft cliff coast 2008–2012 based on DTM from airborne laser scanning (Wolin Island, southern Baltic Sea)

Joanna Dudzińska-Nowak; Piotr Wężyk

Headland structural impacts on surf zone current circulations

Mohd S.A. Razak; Ali Dastgheib; Fransiscus X. Suryadi; Dano Roelvink

Relationships between sand spit evolution, environmental forcing and inland inundation

Tony Thomas; Shaun K Lynch; Michael R Phillips; Allan T Williams; Robert W Duck

Longshore drift cell development on the human-impacted Bight of Benin sand barrier coast, West Africa

Raoul A. Laïbi; Edward J. Anthony; Rafael Almar; Bruno Castelle; Nadia Senechal; Elodie Kestenare

Wave-driven circulation over a double nearshore bar system during storm conditions

Nicolas Robin; Raphael Certain; Frederic Bouchette; Edward J. Anthony; Samuel Meulé; Nicolas Aleman

Geomorphology of coastal formations on present and ancient sandy coasts

Agnes Anderson; Kadri Vilumaa; Hannes Tonisson; Are Kont; Urve Ratas; Sten Suuroja

Evolution of Corsican pocket beaches

Balouin Yann; Bélon Rémi; Anne Merour; Camille Riotte

Travelling forelands: complexities in drift and migration patterns

H. Burningham; J.R. French

Control of wave climate and meander dynamics on spit breaching and inlet migration

Chaumillon Eric; Ozenne Florian; Bertin Xavier; Long Nathalie; Ganthy Florian

Spur and groove distribution, morphology and relationship to relative wave exposure, Southern Great Barrier Reef, Australia

Stephanie Duce; Ana Vila-Concejo; Sarah Hamylton; Eleanor Bruce; Jody M. Webster

A paraglacial coastal gravel structure: Connell's Bank, NW Ireland

Jasper Knight; Helene Burningham

Time and spatial variability of sediment grading in the surfzone of a large scale nourishment

B.J.A. Huisman; E.E. Sirks; L. van der Valk; D.J.R. Walstra

Monitoring changes in suspended sediment concentration on the southwestern coast of Korea

Jee-Eun Min; Jong-Kuk Choi; Hyun Yang; Seok Lee; Joo-Hyung Ryu

Regional variation in the dynamics of Estonia's coastal landscapes

Urve Ratas; Reimo Rivis; Are Kont; Hannes Tõnisson; Kadri Vilumaa; Agnes Anderson; Robert Szava-Kovats

Submarine hard-bottom substrates in the western Baltic Sea – human impact versus natural development

Klaus Schwarzer; Björn Bohling; Christoph Heinrich

Forecasting lagoon outlet erosion: KwaZulu-Natal, southeast Africa

A.M. Smith; L.A. Guastella; B.J. Goble

Seasonal sedimentary processes of the macrotidal flat in Gomso Bay, Korea

Jeongwon Kang; Han J. Woo; Yoon-Kyung Lee; Young B. Son

Sea level fluctuation and shoreline evolution on decadal time scale, Lithuanian Baltic Sea coast

Darius Jarmalavičius; Donatas Pupienis; Gintautas Žilinskas

The role of beachrocks on the evolution of the Holocene barrier systems in Rio de Janeiro, southeastern Brazil

André L.C. da Silva; Maria A.M. da Silva; Rogério S. de Souza; Márcio L.V. Pinto

Morphodynamic characterization of beaches on a Pacific atoll island: Tetiaroa, French Polynesia

Matthieu Jeanson; Edward J. Anthony; Samuel Etienne; Franck Dolique

Middle shoreface sand transport under the influence of a river plume

Saulo Meirelles; Alexander R. Horner-Devine; Martijn Henriquez; Marcel Stive; Julie Pietrzak; Alejandro J. Souza

Megaripple dynamics on a dissipative sandy beach

Jon Miles; Antony Thorpe; Paul Russell; Gerd Masselink

Influence of storms on coastal retreat in SW Spain

María Puig; Laura del Rio; Theocharis A. Plomaritis; Javier Benavente

The natural causes of shoreline evolution of Capo Peloro, the northernmost point of Sicily (Italy)

Giovanni Randazzo; Claudia Cigala; Antonio Crupi; Stefania Lanza

Meandering fluvial system influencing the evolution of a Holocene regressive barrier in southern Brazil

Anderson Biancini da Silva; Eduardo G. Barboza; Maria Luiza C.C. Rosa; Sérgio R. Dillenburg

Dune coast changes caused by weak storm events in Miedzywodzie, Poland

Natalia Bugajny; Kazimierz Furmańczyk

Morphological changes of a Mediterranean beach over one year (San Giovanni Sinis, western Mediterranean)

Simone Simeone; Giovanni De Falco; Giovanni Quattrocchi; Andrea Cucco

Multi-scale analysis of wave conditions and coastal changes in the north-eastern Baltic Sea

Ülo Suursaar; Victor Alari; Hannes Tõnisson

Field experiments with different fractions of painted sediments to study material transport in three coastal sites in Estonia

Hannes Tõnisson; Ülo Suursaar; Are Kont; Kaarel Orviku; Reimo Rivis; Robert Szava-Kovats; Kadri Vilumaa; Triin Aarna; Maris Eelsalu; Katri Pindsoo; Valdeko Palginõmm; Urve Ratas

Incorporating dynamic factors to the Environmental Sensitivity Index (ESI) shoreline classification – Estonian and Spanish examples

Robert Aps; Hannes Tõnisson; Giorgio Anfuso; José Antonio Perales; Kaarel Orviku; Ülo Suursaar

The influence of interannual variability of mean sea level in the Adriatic Sea on extreme values

M.F. Bruno; M.G. Molfetta; A.F. Petrillo

Overtopping hazard on a rubble mound breakwater

Ana R. Carrasco; Maria T. Reis; Maria G. Neves; Óscar Ferreira; Ana Matias; Sílvia Almeida

A contribution to climate change assessment of storm surges along the coast of Mozambique

Adérito C.F. Aramuge; Alfredo Rocha; Paulo A. Silva

Spatial distribution of storm wave energy dissipation for the assessment of beach morphodynamics

E. Guisado-Pintado; G. Malvárez; F. Navas; R. Carrero

Hurricane Isaac storm surge deposition in a coastal wetland along Lake Pontchartrain, southern Louisiana

Kam-biu Liu; Terrence A. McCloskey; Thomas A. Bianchette; Gregory Keller; Nina S.N. Lam; Jaye E. Cable; Jill Arriola

A preliminary study of the distribution, sizes and orientations of large reef-top coral boulders deposited by extreme waves at Makemo Atoll, French Polynesia

A. Y. Annie Lau; Samuel Etienne; James P. Terry; Adam D. Switzer; Ying Sin Lee

Responses of coastal waters in the Yellow Sea to Typhoon Bolaven

Chang S. Kim; Hak-Soo Lim; Jin Yong Jeong; Jae-Seol Shim; Il-Ju Moon; You Jung Oh; Hak Yoel You

Transformation of small-scale meteorological tsunami due to terrain complexity on the western coast of Korea

Taemin Ha; Jin-Yong Choi; Jeseon Yoo; Insik Chun; Jaeseol Shim

Applicability of video-derived bathymetry estimates to nearshore current model predictions

Max Radermacher; Meagan Wengrove; Jaap van Thiel de Vries; Rob Holman

Extensive monitoring and intensive analysis of extreme winter-season wave events on the Korean east coast

Sang-Ho Oh; Weon-Mu Jeong

Breach process simulation of coastal levees broken by the 2011 Tsunami

Tatsuki Iida; Shuichi Kure; Keiko Udo; Akira Mano; Hitoshi Tanaka

Storm deposition induced by hurricanes in a rapidly subsiding coastal zone

James D. Naquin; Kam-biu Liu; Terrence A. McCloskey; Thomas A. Bianchette

Characterization of wave climate and extreme events into the SW Spanish and Wales coasts as a first step to define their wave energy potential

Nelson Rangel-Buitrago; Giorgio Anfuso; Mike Phillips; Tony Thomas; Oscar Alvarez; Manuel Forero

Influence of climate change on the Ria de Aveiro littoral: adaptation strategies for flooding events and shoreline retreat

Joao M. Dias; Carina L. Lopes; Carlos Coelho; Carla Pereira; Fatima L. Alves; Lisa P. Sousa; Ines C. Antunes; Maria da Luz Fernandes; Mike R. Phillips

Non-uniformity of storm impacts on three high-energy embayed beaches

Carlos Loureiro; Oscar Ferreira; J. Andrew G. Cooper∞

Effects of bathymetry on the propagation of tsunamis towards the east coast of Korea

Sung B. Yoon; Seok C. Kim; Unil Baek; Jae S. Bae

Recording of selected effects and hazards caused by current and expected storm events in the Baltic Sea coastal zone

Kazimierz Furmańczyk; Paweł Andrzejewski; Rafał Benedyczak; Natalia Bugajny; Łukasz Cieszyński; Joanna Dudzińska-Nowak; Andrzej Giza; Dominik Paprotny; Paweł Terefenko; Tomasz Zawiślak

Global changes in mean tidal high water, low water and range

R.J. Mawdsley; I.D. Haigh; N.C. Wells

Cliff-top storm deposits (55-63m amsl) from Morgan Bay, South Africa

A.M. Smith; A.N. Green; J.A.G. Cooper; S. Dixon; L. Pretorius; E. Wiles; L.A. Guastella

Nearshore bathymetry from video and the application to rip current predictions for the Dutch Coast

Leo Sembiring; Ap van Dongeren; Gundula Winter; Maarten van Ormondt; Christophe Briere; Dano Roelvink

Massive cooling water dispersion behavior in a shallow macro-tidal coastal zone in Korea

SeungWon Suh

RISC-KIT: Resilience-Increasing Strategies for Coasts - toolKIT

Ap Van Dongeren; Paolo Ciavola; Christophe Viavattene; Simone de Kleermaeker; Grit Martinez; Oscar Ferreira; Cristina Costa; Robert McCall

Incorporating dynamics factor to the Environmental Sensitivity Index (ESI) shoreline classification – Estonian and Spanish example

Robert Aps; Hannes Tõnisson; Giorgio Anfuso; José A. Perales; Kaarel Orviku; Ülo Suursaar

Assessment of the Sensitivity of Salamina (Saronic Gulf) and Elafonissos (Lakonic Gulf) islands to Sea-level Rise

Efthimios Karymbalis; Christos Chalkias; Maria Ferentinou; George Chalkias; Maria Magklara

Preliminary coastal vulnerability assessment for Pico Island (Azores)

P. Borges; M.R. Phillips; K. Ng; A. Medeiros; H. Calado

Coastal impacts of marine renewables: perception of breaker characteristics by beach water users

Christopher Stokes; Emily Beaumont; Paul Russell; Deborah Greaves

Sandy beaches characterization and management of coastal erosion on western Sardinia island (Mediterranean Sea).

Giovanni De Falco; Francesca Budillon; Alessandro Conforti; Sandro De Muro; Gabriella Di Martino; Sara Innangi; Angelo Perilli; Renato Tonielli; Simone Simeone

Guidelines for coastal zone management in the Amazon estuary (Amapá, Brazil)

Raimunda K.S. Gomes; Francele B.B. de Sousa; Viviane V. Amanajás; Gilvane C. Santos; Luci C.C. Pereira

Managed realignment in practice in the UK: results from two independent surveys

Luciana S. Esteves; Karen Thomas

Artificial intelligence-based models to simulate land-use change around an estuary

R. Carrero; F. Navas; G. Malvárez; E Guisado-Pintado

Regional differences in recreational preferences of Estonian coastal landscapes

Mart Reimann; Üllas Ehrlich; Hannes Tõnisson

Beach user perceptions at the eastern Yucatan peninsula, Mexico

A.T. Williams; A. Barugh

Are natural beaches facing extinction?

Orrin H. Pilkey; J. Andrew G. Cooper

Trend Change(s) in Coastal Management Plans: the integration of short and medium term perspectives in the spatial planning process

Fátima L. Alves; Lisa P. Sousa; Tanya C. Esteves; Eduardo R. Oliveira; Inês C. Antunes; Maria da Luz Fernandes; Luís Carvalho; Sérgio Barroso; Margarida Pereira

Productive Chain of the Mangrove Crab (Ucides cordatus) in the Town of Bragança, in the Northern Brazilian State of Pará (Amazon Region)

Marcos A.B. Monteiro; Francisco P. Oliveira; José N. Araújo; Marcus E.B. Fernandes

An analysis of recent changes in Spanish Coastal Law

Vicente Negro; José-Santos López-Gutiérrez; M. Dolores Esteban; Clara Matutano

Creation of an alternative season based on sustainable tourism as an opportunity for Baltic Sea Region

Przemysław Łonyszyn; Olga Terefenko

Coastal and marine protected areas as key elements for tourism in small islands

Catarina Fonseca; Carlos Pereira da Silva; Helena Calado; Fabiana Moniz; Chiara Bragagnolo; Artur Gil; Mike Phillips; Margarida Pereira; Miguel Moreira

Framework for proper beach nourishment as an adaptation to beach erosion due to sea level rise

Jun Yoshida; Keiko Udo; Yuriko Takeda; Akira Mano

Assessment of vulnerability and adaptive capacity to coastal hazards in the Caribbean Region

Nina S.-N. Lam; Helbert Arenas; Patricia L. Brito; Kam-Biu Liu

Methodology for the development of 3D GIS models in the Coastal Zone

Mateus G. Magarotto; Monica F. Costa; José A. Tenedório; Carlos P. Silva; Ted L. Martins Pontes

A multi-scale analysis to support the implementation of a regional conservation policy in a small-island archipelago – the Azores, Portugal.

Helena Calado; Chiara Bragagnolo; Susana F. Silva; Margarida Pereira

Beach nourishment experiment in Palanga, Lithuania

Donatas Pupienis; Darius Jarmalavičius; Gintautas Žilinskas; Julija Fedorovič

How can Portugal effectively integrate ICM and MSP?

Maria A. Ferreira; David Johnson; Carlos Pereira da Silva

West African EBSAs: Building capacity for future protection

David Johnson; Jihyun Lee; Abou Bamba; Charlotte Karibuhoye

An interactive WebGIS observatory platform for enhanced support of integrated coastal management

A. Oliveira; G. Jesus; J.L. Gomes; J. Rogeiro; A. Azevedo; M. Rodrigues; A.B. Fortunato; J.M. Dias; L.M. Tomas; L. Vaz; E.R. Oliveira; F.L. Alves; S. den Boer

Coastal management and mis-management: comparing successes and failures at two lagoon outlets in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Lisa Guastella; Alan Smith; Tandi Breetzke

Beach users' profile, perceptions and willingness to pay for beach management in Cadiz (SW Spain)

Bruna Alves; Javier Benavente; Óscar Ferreira

Evaluation of recreational quality, carrying capacity and ecosystem services supplied by sandy beaches of the municipality of Camaçari, northern coast of Bahia, Brazil

José R. de Souza Filho; Rodrigo C. Santos; Iracema R. Silva; Carla I. Elliff

Cross-shore variation of water surface elevation and velocity during bore propagation

Kwang-Ho Lee; Sungwon Shin; Do-Sam Kim

Development of an oil spill hazard scenarios database for risk assessment

Sérgio den Boer; Alberto Azevedo; Leandro Vaz; Ricardo Costa; André B. Fortunato; Anabela Oliveira; Luís M. Tomás; João M. Dias; Marta Rodrigues

Tourism carrying capacity on estuarine beaches in the Brazilian Amazon region

Rosigleyse C. de Sousa; Luci C.C. Pereira; Rauquírio M. da Costa; José A. Jiménez

The impact of processes associated with risk assessment and categorization of bathing waters on the water safety system development on the Polish Baltic coast

Tomasz Zalewski; Tomasz Czapiewski

Recreational parameters as an assessment tool for beach quality

Camilo-Mateo Botero; Cristina Pereira; Giorgio Anfuso; Omar Cervantes; Allan T. Williams; Enzo Pranzini; Carlos P. Silva

Sedimentation and erosion patterns in a low shoot-density Zostera noltii meadow in the fetch-limited Berre lagoon, Mediterranean France

Anne-Éléonore Paquier; Samuel Meulé; Edward J. Anthony; Guillaume Bernard

Effects of mud flows from the LUSI mud volcano on the Porong River estuary, Indonesia

Shuichi Kure; Bambang Winarta; Yuriko Takeda; Keiko Udo; Makoto Umeda; Akira Mano; Hitoshi Tanaka

Influence of mean sea level rise on tidal dynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon, Portugal

Carina L. Lopes; João M. Dias

The influence of the Maputo and Incomati rivers on the mixing and outflow of freshwater from Maputo Bay (Mozambique)

Katrin Markull; João D. Lencart e Silva; John H. Simpson; João Miguel Dias

Salinity modelling accuracy of a coastal lagoon: a comparative river flow analysis of basin model vs. traditional approaches

L.M. Tomas; M. Rodrigues; A.B. Fortunato; A. Azevedo; P.C. Leitão; A. Oliveira; A. Rocha; J.F. Lopes; J.M. Dias

Hydrodynamics of a river-associated tidal inlet and maintenance of dynamic equilibrium: preliminary findings

Mauricio Villagran; Diego Caamaño; Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Tidal dispersion and flushing times in a multiple inlet lagoon

João D. Lencart e Silva; Carina L. Lopes; Ana Picado; Magda C. Sousa; João M. Dias

Study of suspended sediment dynamics in a temperate coastal lagoon: Ria de Aveiro (Portugal)

Sandra Plecha; Ana Picado; Pedro Chambel-Leitão; João M. Dias; Nuno Vaz

Residual currents and transport pathways in the Tagus estuary, Portugal: the role of freshwater discharge and wind

Nuno Vaz; João M. Dias

Analysis of the recent evolution of the sand spit at the Solís Chico river mouth

Sebastián Solari; Christian Chreties; Guillermo López; Luis Teixeira

Differential short- and medium-term behavior of two sections of an urban beach

Javier Benavente; Theocharis A. Plomaritis; Laura del Río; María Puig; Cristina Valenzuela; Bruno Minuzzi

Estimating the impact threshold for wind-blown sand

Bailiang Li; Jean T. Ellis; Douglas J. Sherman

Rip currents and circulation on a high-energy low-tide-terraced beach (Grand Popo, Benin, West Africa)

Bruno Castelle; Rafael Almar; Matthieu Dorel; Jean-Pierre Lefebvre; Nadia Senechal; Edward J. Anthony; Raoul Laibi; Rémy Chuchla; Yves du Penhoat

Video monitoring and field measurements of a rapidly evolving coastal system: the river mouth and sand spit of the Mataquito River in Chile

Rodrigo Cienfuegos; Mauricio Villagran; Juan C. Aguilera; Patricio Catalán; Bruno Castelle; Rafael Almar

Storm-driven cusp behaviour on a high energy gravel beach

T.G. Poate; G. Masselink; R.M McCall; P.E. Russell; M.A. Davidson

The Grand Popo beach 2013 experiment, Benin, West Africa: from short timescale processes to their integrated impact over long-term coastal evolution

Rafael Almar; Norbert Hounkonnou; Edward J. Anthony; Bruno Castelle; Nadia Senechal; Raoul Laibi; Trinity Mensah-Senoo; Georges Degbe; Mayol Quenum; Matthieu Dorel; Remy Chuchla; Jean-Pierre Lefebvre; Yves du Penhoat; Wahab Sowah Laryea; Gilles Zodehougan; Zacharie Sohou; Kwasi Appeaning Addo; Raimundo Ibaceta; Elodie Kestenare

Intertidal beach classification in infrared images

Bas Hoonhout; Fedor Baart; Jaap van Thiel de Vries

Contribution of swash processes generated by low energy wind waves in the recovery of a beach impacted by extreme events: Nha Trang, Vietnam

Jean-Pierre Lefebvre; Rafael Almar; Nguyen T. Viet; Dinh V. Uu; Duong H. Thuan; Le T. Binh; Raimundo Ibaceta; Nguyen V. Duc

Observed destruction of a beach cusp system in presence of a double-coupled cusp system: the example of Grand Popo, Benin

Nadia Senechal; R.A. Laibi; R. Almar; B. Castelle; M. Biausque; J.-P. Lefebvre; E. J. Anthony; M. Dorel; R. Chuchla; M.H. Hounkonnou; Y. Du Penhoat

Nearshore and foreshore influence on overwash of a barrier island

Ana Matias; Ana R. Carrasco; Carlos Loureiro; Sílvia Almeida; Óscar Ferreira

Morphodynamic variations of a macrotidal beach (Atalaia) on the Brazilian Amazon Coast

Luci C.C. Pereira; Ketellyn S.T. Pinto; Ana Vila-Concejo

Stratigraphic analysis applied on the recognition of the interface between marine and fluvial depositional systems

Eduardo G. Barboza; Maria L.C.C. Rosa; Sérgio R. Dillenburg; Anderson B. da Silva; Luiz J. Tomazelli

Alongshore variations in beach-dune system response to major storm events on the Danube Delta coast

Florin Tătui; Alfred Vespremeanu-Stroe; Luminiţa Preoteasa

Bedform Dynamics in a Rip Current

Antony Thorpe; Jon Miles; Gerd Masselink; Paul Russell

Determining the role of exposure, wave force, and rock chemical resistance in marine notch development.

Paweł Terefenko; Olga Terefenko

Beach oscillation and rotation: local and regional response at three beaches in southeast Australia

Andrew D. Short; Melissa A. Bracs; Ian L. Turner

A preliminary classification of coastal sand dunes of KwaZulu-Natal

D.W.T. Jackson; J.A.G. Cooper; A.N. Green

Integrating different records to assess coastal hazards at multi-century timescales

Adam D. Switzer; Fengling Yu; Chris Gouramanis; Janneli Lea A. Soria; Dat T. Pham

Wind-driven waves in a shallow estuarine lake with muddy substrates: St Lucia, South Africa

Vulindlela Zikhali; Katrin Tirok; Derek Stretch

Beachrock facies variability and sea level implications: a preliminary study

Christopher S. Kelly; Andrew N. Green; J. Andrew G. Cooper; Errol Wiles

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eISSN 1551-5036
ISSN 0749-0208

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